Franconia Ridge Trail: Your ticket to the top of the world

MOUNT LAFAYETTE AND FRANCONIA RIDGE LOOP TRAIL WITH OVERNIGHT STOP AT AMC GREENLEAF HUT

JUNE, 2023

The Re-Discovered Quest

Years ago, as I was perusing Yankee Magazine, and I came across an article about a hiking trip that involved staying in an AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club) hut overnight.  The overnight meant a reprieve from hiking up a mountain before having to descend, so it had my attention.  But an overnight stay also included a hot dinner and breakfast which sounded nice too.  Again, this was years ago – so long ago in fact that the Yankee Magazine I was reading was the smaller (6x9) size if you know what I mean.  I had young kids, and we were not ready for this much of an adventure yet.  So, I made a mental bucket list note and put the magazine away and filed it under “someday.”  Fast forward to 2022.  I’m reading a book about a pair of friends who hiked all the 4,000’ and over mountains of New Hampshire (there are 52).  Each mountain covered included pictures and a brief description of the hike. One picture – that of the Lafayette climb – was the most alluring to me.  I had seen this picture before but had not known what, exactly, I was looking at.  It was of a trail not going up the mountain, but on top of the mountain.  I knew that being on it would be special. 

Instead of reaching a summit and looking out in one direction, I’d have 360-degree views.  I later learned that this picture of Mount Lafayette was part of the Franconia Ridge Loop Trail which is part of the Presidential Range of the White Mountains.  It’s approximately 9 miles total and is described as difficult.  I was not sure I could do it – it would have been my longest and hardest hike.  But I really wanted to be on that ridge.  My son, very familiar with hiking the Whites, mentioned an AMC hut along the way and suggested I stay there to break up the trip.  He described it to me, and I eventually remembered that I had once read about this type of lodging.  I dug through some of the few Yankee Magazines I had kept long ago for one reason or another (pre-Pintrist) and there it was, the story about the overnight hut hike.  It was Greenleaf, the same hut my son was recommending.  Someday was finally here. I picked my dates and made reservations through the AMC website months in advance and hoped for good weather. 

The Plan

My son recommended the route. I would start at the parking lot at the Franconia Ridge/Mount Lafayette trailhead and ascend from Old Bridal Path trailhead and split off to the Falling Waters trail.  From there I climb Little Haystack Mountain, traversing the ridge line over Mount Lincoln and to the top of Mount Lafayette.  On the way down I would take Old Bridal Trail to the Greenleaf Hut where I would stay overnight and then continue back down to the parked car the next morning.  It’s approximately 9 miles total, about 6 miles to the hut, including summiting Lafayette, and then another 3 miles to the parking lot.  It’s a popular loop trail and well marked.  With some pre-conditioning, I thought I would be fine, especially with the overnight rest provided by the AMC hut stay.  Apparently, early June was a little iffy with regard to the weather.  I was going to have to be prepared for cold temperatures and take layers, starting with a light wool base, extra socks, a hat and gloves.  A little extra packing to be sure I was comfortable was fine by me. 

The Reality

Well, it was more than a little extra.  My husband informed me that I was also going to have to carry my sleeping bag.  That was a first.  We realized I didn’t have a hiker’s sleeping bag, only a camping bag which was going to be needlessly heavy.  So, I invested in a lightweight bag which could be stuffed and cinched into a small bag, in addition to my wool base layer.  I packed everything in my backpack, a daypack which did not have a waist belt, well before our hike to be sure it all fit.  Nothing was said about the sufficiency of my backpack.  In hindsight, I would have preferred a more comfortable pack.  I thought I was only carrying some extra clothing, a few toiletries, my headlamp, cell phone, a power bar and a few odds and ends in addition to the sleeping bag.  To my surprise, once at the Franconia Notch parking lot, my husband saddled me with two large containers of water – my water for the hike. I know I should have expected this, but it was something I overlooked as my husband usually carries the water on our less extensive day trips.  I didn’t realize water was so heavy….  I was a bit shocked at the extra weight and it all fell on my shoulders since I had no waist belt. 

I did it without complaint, until about ½ mile from Greenleaf hut.  At that point I was lagging behind like a tired three-year old after a long day at the amusement park.  To the amusement of the other hikers, my husband took my backpack from me and carried it the rest of the way.  Boy was I happy to see that hut!

The Hike

The trail is challenging in a good way.  It’s long but the grade is not terrible.  Steep sections are often followed by more level sections and once you summit Little Haystack Mountain you get some parts where you are hiking downhill. 

The ridge line provides relief as well, not only in terms of the grade, but with the distraction the view provides.  The trail as a whole is very wide and well maintained.  You have to navigate a few water crossings in the beginning of Falling Waters Trail.  Hiking poles would be helpful for balance, but they were not necessary to cross.  You may need waterproof boots during the Spring when I suspect the water is running higher and faster.  Old Bridal Trail has a long, steep, very jagged, rocky section that I imagine would be dangerously slick during wet conditions.  Hiking poles would be helpful here, especially if descending.  You don’t want to fall on those rocks, and I spent a bit of time scooching along on my bottom at the steepest parts to avoid just that. 

The hike itself was amazing.  As luck would have it, we had one of the best days of the year in terms of weather.  It was only a little cool in the morning, in the high 40’s, then reached the high 60’s by early afternoon.  Perfect climbing temperatures. And clear blue sky.  So clear. 

I was told by a member of the Croo (the official name for the AMC hosts) that it was very unusual for so many of the mountains in the distance to be visible.  New England weather changes often and is very moody, as locals know well.  Most avid hikers, such as my son, fully expect to climb in less-than-ideal weather most of the time.  Many of their summits are shrouded in fog, cloud cover or snow.  It makes those dry, clear days with tons of visibility that much sweeter when you are blessed with them.  And I was certainly blessed on this trip.  Among the many people hiking the trail that day were an AMC group from upper New York.  Several of the members befriended us that day and we had the pleasure of their company both during the hike and at the AMC hut that evening. The AMC hut experience was wonderful (more about that in the AMC hut blog). Our second day was just as nice as the first for our morning decent. And I made it no worse for wear.  Sure, my legs and shoulders were a little tired, but all in all, my pre-hike routine did the trick.  (I just jogged uphill three times per week till I couldn’t go any further and then jogged back down, trying to get a little further each time – which doesn’t happen.  I learned it was OK to plateau and sometimes even go less than the day before.  And on my off days I did a little arm workout which consisted of push-ups and weights.  I did this for the six weeks immediately preceding my trip). 

Once back at the car it was time to celebrate.  It was early morning, so our usual happy hour or brewery stop was not an option.  We opted for a coffeehouse. 

MAD RIVER COFFEE

This is the coffee house you dream about. Always bustling with fans, this is the place to get a good cup of that dark elixir.  Brewed in house, Mad River coffee isn’t just for breakfast. Customers line up all day for the stuff. Service is quick and pleasant.  You can be off on your way to the next adventure or kick up your feet and revel in the one you just did.  No one is going to rush you here.  There are couches, big chairs, table and high-top seating choices to suit whatever kind of mood you are in or the job that needs to be done while re-fueling. Up for a challenge?  Choose from their selection of from-scratch food items when caffeine alone isn’t enough.  Their breakfast, lunch and baked goods menu, including rotating specials, is that wicked good combination of comfort food and innovative fare. 

My drink of choice on this visit was a hot, Dirty Chai (chai tea mixed with steamed milk and a shot of espresso).  They have two varieties: vanilla and spice, the vanilla being a little sweeter.  I opted for the spice and was happy with my selection as well as the service.  I noted my preference for a less sweet preparation, and they nailed it. 

The Reason to Visit:  It’s all about the coffee.

Fun Fact: The owner, Dave, taught himself to brew coffee at his kitchen table. His aim was to create a brew that was less acidic due to some stomach issues he was having. This resulted in their signature Mad River Blend coffee. The rest is history.

When you go: Check out their line-up of live music events and plan your next visit.

Mad River Coffee, 18 Six Flags Rd., West Campton.  https://madrivercoffeeroasters.com/