Kayaking the White Mountains

SEPTEMBER, 2023

It was one of those glorious, late September, Indian summer days. The morning started off chilly and, upon stepping outside to help with the kayaks, the cold air immediately found the holes in my water shoes. I could see Ronnie’s breath rising from the other side of the vehicle. Silently wondering if we should be wearing wet suits, I lifted and turned and tossed straps as directed so he could secure the kayaks to the rooftop. Although the preparations warmed me up a bit, I made sure to grab one of my knitted beanies when we went back into the house to grab the cooler. We were both in “performance” shorts and long sleeve tops which is nice and lightweight in the warm summer air but cold on the skin this 45-degree morning. The forecast called for temperatures in the high 70’s. My husband’s penchant for starting our adventures early in the day made me wonder if we would be finished before that warmer weather arrived. No matter. I had never been kayaking in the fall and I was bound and determined to go. The woods surrounding the house and on the road were already in fall fashion mode and I could just imagine how gorgeous the reflections off the lake would be. Our destination that day was Stinson Lake. It is a small lake, but is the only lake located within the White Mountain National Forest which piqued my interest.

We pulled into the boat launch parking area of Stinson Lake, which was still open and even “manned” by an attendant. I had seen it gated off last winter and wondered if we would have to park elsewhere. We learned that the lake, if not the parking area, is accessible all year round with ice fishing allowed during the winter. After unloading the kayaks, we grabbed our gear and put in the lake. The water was not as cold as I thought it would be on my feet. The sun was shining, and I immediately turned to face it to take in the warmth. I reached for my apple (we had gone picking yesterday) and heard, “Let’s go.” Ronnie was paddling by me. He rolled his eyes when he saw what was in my hand. “We haven’t even started!” He was not interested in worshiping the sun or eating an apple. So, I took a bite and then started paddling. Paddle, bite, paddle, bite. I was behind but not by much. We were going to paddle the perimeter of the lake, counterclockwise. Once my body warmed some and my stomach was satisfied and I caught up, I finally took in the view. Boy was it spectacular. There were no other people on the lake and no wind, so the water was quite still. The yellow and orange leaves from the surrounding woods seemed to extend right from the edge of the water to the middle of the lake. We were gliding through the trees.

As we rounded the second bend, we approached a shallow area known as a “sandbar.”  When we kayaked here in summer, we exited our kayaks at this spot, swam and hung out for a while. The water at the top of the sandbar was only up to our ankles in some spots, our knees in others. At that time, I found a rock big enough to rest on, my bottom half floating in the water while the top half took on the warmth of the hot sun. Within minutes I saw trout passing by my feet and a bald eagle soaring above. Not inclined to get wet on this trip, we skirted around the lower part of the sandbar towards the middle of the lake so as not to hit bottom. At this point, with a long, straight stretch in front of us and arms warmed up, we picked up the pace. We didn’t stop until we reached the other end, rounded the next bend and entered into a marshy area. We changed direction toward the center of the lake to avoid the grasses, leaves and other natural debris in that spot. When paddling got easier, we headed back towards the shoreline for the last leg of the tour. I convinced Ronnie to take a short break, and we floated and admired the peacefulness of the area for a while. He ate his apple. A headwind had kicked up and before we knew it, we were blown back to the marshy area. Once again untangling ourselves, we again went into exercise mode and pumped our paddles with gusto back to the boat launch. The houses we passed along the way, like the ones before, were pleasantly non-mansion-like and quiet on this early fall morning. I wondered how many of them were seasonal homes, all buttoned up after Labor Day weekend.

It was a nice, short kayak ride. This was one of those rare days that I was not keeping track of time, but I’d guess we spent about two hours on the lake. We returned to the boat launch, hauled ourselves out, and took one last look around at the foliage. It was just starting to warm up.

We do most of our kayaking during the summer. The Lakes Region of New Hampshire abounds with places to enjoy this leisurely activity. Two that we’ve enjoyed are Squam and Newfound Lake.  Grey Rocks Conservation Area in Hebron is a great launch point for Newfound Lake. You get to paddle through a marsh channel that opens into the lake. It’s a serene experience, floating over the tall grasses and lili pads. I enjoy the subtle brushing sound that results from the kayak weaving in and around the vegetation. You try to avoid running into the flower blossoms or alerting the upcoming turtle to your presence. Your heart skips a beat when a large blue heron unexpectedly rises from a thicket as you pass by. Before long, the channel widens, pulls you out of your reverie and spits you out into New Hampshire’s cleanest and clearest lake. From there, you are in charge of your journey.

Another public launch site for kayaking Newfound Lake is Wellington State Park in Bristol. This will give you access to the other end of the lake and to a beach and picnic area. It is very crowded in season.

Squam Lake has several public launch sites. We use Squam Lakes Association.

SQUAMSIDE BEACH BAR (AT WALTER’S BASIN)

Low purr of small motorboats. Faint chitter chatter of young and old amid pontoon boats. Hollow wood thuds of those walking to and from the restaurant via the boat docks. Sun glistening off gentle waves of water and the brightly colored crafts floating by. These are the sights and sounds you are treated to at the Squamside Beach Bar. The smell of fresh water, fresh air, and freshly cooked food add to the sensory experience. Located on the bank of the small channel that connects Little Squam Lake to Big Squam Lake, the casual eatery is an ideal location to refuel and relax in the Lakes Region.

The beach bar is a new addition to Walter’s Basin Restaurant, a mainstay in Holderness. Owner Gary Chaffee has worked hard for over a year to create this experience. There is a long countertop seating area running the length of the bar on the lakeside. You can choose to be in the sun or utilize the nearby umbrellas for shade. Behind, attached to the restaurant and covered is a small bar with additional seating and some free-standing high-top tables. There is a ramp and stairway leading from the road down to the beach bar and a small patio with seating right before the entrance. This is still a work in progress and Gary plans to put up a pergola in this entrance area. The property sits on the Little Squam end of the lake. While the restaurant is open year-round, Squamside is seasonal.

I headed here following a summer kayaking day and thoroughly enjoyed the Lime In Da Coconut Crush. It is made with coconut rum, fresh lime juice, bar mix and ginger ale and served over crushed ice in a tall glass. As refreshing as it sounds.

The Reason to visit: Al fresco lakeside with built-in entertainment watching the boats pass through the channel and arrive/depart from the docks at the restaurant.

Fun Fact: Squam Lake was where the movie On Golden Pond was filmed.

When you go: Try to spot a loon.

Walter's Basin Restaurant, 859 US RTE 3, Holderness

Waltersbasin.com