The Migration - Lupines in the White Mountains of New Hampshire

JUNE 23, 2024

We’ve all seen the great migration of various animals captured by National Geographic, the Discovery Channel and other nature-based media outlets.  There are the wildebeests in Africa, the Canada-Mexico trip of the monarch butterfly, and the salmon and humpback whale runs to name a few.  These animals, by instinct or learned behavior, make these yearly, round-trip migrations to breed, feed and/or escape bad weather.  These events are impressive to comprehend and to watch.  Something about so many entities making such a compulsive and arduous journey is intriguing.  In the end, it’s about the continued survival of the species.  Many early humans were not spared from migration – especially if they had to follow their food.  But what about now?  

Very few people, if any, have to make a yearly round-trip journey during present times to have their basic needs met.  Seasonal migrations at this time are a choice for us humans.  Some with financial means choose to escape to warmer or colder climates during certain times of the year for comfort.  Most embark on a migration of sorts for recreational purposes.  Leaf-peeping season in the White Mountains definitely causes a migration. So does the lupine season.  I was part of it this past June, right before my leg surgery.  My last “hurrah” so to speak, before I was laid up for a while.

Lupines are large, tall flowers.  The stalk is thick with a spear-shaped cluster of many small blooms that are usually either blue/purple or pink.  They multiply in sunny meadows via their root system offshoots and, if left to spread, can amass into a spectacular display.  Their size makes them easily visible from the road and spotting them has become a seasonal attraction. In the White Mountains, they appear in early to mid-June and last only a few weeks. During that time, swarms of people from near and far make there way to see nature’s fireworks.

Like most, we headed to Sugar Hill, New Hampshire. It’s not the only place to spot lupine, but it seems to be the best overall which is why it is so popular.  Not only do you have the show-stopping lupine display in several open fields, but you have many other quaint, picturesque spots within the towns of Sugar Hill and Franconia to take in.  We first drive through Franconia Notch State Park, eye candy in and of itself.  Winding through the notch on a dry, sunny morning, eyes rising to the tops of the ever-escalating peaks, it’s hard to imagine passing by such beauty for the glimpse of another.  But we remind ourselves that the lupine season is fleeting and press on, up Interstate 93 to the Franconia-Sugar Hill exit.  From there, it’s a short drive to Sugar Hill. 

It’s been many years since I was up this way, and it wasn’t even to spot lupine.  My husband and I had taken a trip to Polly’s Pancake Parlor, a popular breakfast destination – especially during the lupine season. They have a full breakfast menu, but their claim to fame is their pancakes.  They offer a variety of batters, including buckwheat and cornmeal, and are prepared by your table server. As someone who has a hard time choosing items from a menu, I appreciate the sample platter option that lets you mix and match either three (half stack) or six (full stack) pancakes.  All are served with real New Hampshire maple syrup. We decided to forgo a visit to the restaurant on this trip, knowing it would be even busier than usual.  

I had forgotten how pretty the drive up Rt. 117 is.  It’s old farm country with wide open, rolling fields and, on this day, plenty of blue sky and wildflowers. You pass an iconic barn with a silo, a white steepled church, individual homes, Polly’s Pancake Parlor, a historical museum, and a small cheese and gift shop.  We drive slowly to take it all in.  Polly’s parking lot was packed with people waiting outside.  Lots of what looked to be multigenerational families, younger kids running about, older folk sitting on benches and the sandwich generation keeping track of everyone.  The lupines were out, gently waving to all the spectators from meadows and front yards. Big splotches of pink and purple against a backdrop of green grass and the blue/green mountains that surround the area. We make a few passes up and down Rt. 117, pull over to take a few pictures and purchase some cheese from from Harman’s Cheese and Country Store (try the smoked Swiss), then take in the views from the vantage point of some higher elevations of the side roads. Once satisfied, we made our way back to Franconia where I had spotted two gastro destinations on the way in: Franconia Coffee House and Iron Furnace Brewing.   We made a pit stop at both to sample the wares and determine if they were worth a return trip for a more substantial visit.  It was a “yes” and a “yes.” More on these places elsewhere.

While getting to Iron Furnace Brewing, I noticed what looked like a small park down the road.  It had a large stone structure visible from the road.  It turned out to be a historic iron blast furnace – hence the name of the nearby brewery. We checked out the Besaw Iron Furnace Interpretive Center after our beer sampler.  Aside from taking in the sight of the historic iron blast furnace from across the way (you can’t access the furnace as it is on private property), we quickly crossed the ancient looking iron bridge to some walking trails along the Gale River.  Being compromised by my knee injury, we (I) were limited in terms of the level of physical activity we (I) could take. The very fine stone dust trail looked to be pretty flat so we decided to give it a go in my knee brace and cane.  Not having tromped through nature since my injury a month earlier, I felt very compelled to experience it, regardless of how slow I was going.  The sound and smell of the river, the sight of fallen bits of trees and plants underfoot and the feeling of soft breeze across my face made me almost want to cry.  My walking pace almost made Ronnie want to cry…. If I made it a half mile, that was far.  I didn’t take a chance going any further but it appeared to be a very easy going walk. There are several art sculptures along the way for added interest, but my attention was mostly on the ground below me with occasional glimpses of the river.  There were a few spots on the part of the trail I walked that veered off to the river for those who were able to get there feet wet.  Not an option for me this time.

That was the end of the day for us.  In six days, I’d be having surgery to repair my torn ACL and meniscus.  It would be a month before I made it back to New Hampshire and two weeks more before I was able to get back out to the white mountain and lakes regions for some very physically light activities.  During my immediate recovery period, I made a list of some things I might be able to do and share in these two regions during my long recovery period.  I’m excited to take a driving tour of covered bridges, ride the tram to the top of Bretton Woods Ski Resort, explore the shops of North Conway and experience the Upper Dome of the Conway Scenic Railroad Mountaineer trip.  Please come with me.  I’ll not only share those travel experiences but will, of course, provide tips to quench your thirst along the way.

FRANCONIA COFFEE HOUSE

With a nice, large sign out front it would be hard to miss Franconia Coffee House.  It’s a quaint establishment, with a few seating areas inside and two picnic tables outside.  Their coffee is sourced from Mad River Coffee Roasters, so you know it’s good.  They had many special iced lattes advertised.  One, called Stacy’s Mom, caught my attention and made me smile. With toasted marshmallow flavor and cinnamon, it was an easy choice.  They also offered several breakfast choices that made us smile.  One was jalapeño cream cheese which Ronnie quickly had spread on a plain toasted bagel and devoured.  The other was Hazelnut Toast which was my choice. It consisted of a toasted raisin bagel with Nutella spread, caramelized bananas and toasted almonds slivers.  All I can say is, “wow.” It was a bit indulgent and thoroughly enjoyed. They have lunch options and baked goods as well.

The Reason to Visit:  Quick midday pick-me-up or fuel for the road.

Fun Fact:  The owner, Ivy, was born and raised in the Philippines and often incorporates some of the Filipino flavors into her recipes.  

When You Go:  Try something new from their rotating specials.

Bonus:  Check out this fun version of Stacy’s Mom:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2kOj-GFN8k 

Franconia Coffee House, 334 Main Street, Franconia

https://franconiacoffeehouse.com